What they won’t tell you about tulum: A Hostel, party and tour guide for budget-conscious travellers and digital nomads

These days it seems like everyone’s either already in Tulum or planning on visiting some day. With Mexico’s lax measures, Tulum has transformed into somewhat of a playground for travellers avoiding friction. If you’re curious about what its like to visit Tulum during a pandemic, read on!

THE CANÚN CIRCUIT

Tulum is a popular spot on what I call The Cancun Circuit-the typical tourist trail around the Yucatan Peninsula. This journey often started in Cancun, rev up in Playa del Carmen, Climax in Tulum and wind down in Vallodolid (home of world wonder Chichén Itza). More Savvy travellers, would hit lesser known areas such as Holbox or Isla Mujeres. I was constantly catching extreme cases of deja vu after running into travellers I had seen before.

In October 2021, because of the nature of my work (working with a Mexican Charity), I visited Tulum many times. Each time I visited Tulum, Tulum revealed a different aspect of itself to me. Even until this day, I can’t tell you whether or not I love or hate this city.

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Do you have to wear a mask in tulum?  Covid-19 protocols in tulum

You do not have to wear masks everywhere in Tulum.

Most establishments whether it be restaurants, hotels or clubs do not require you to wear masks, that said, staff can often be seen wearing masks. Besides small market stalls and market stands, vendors, restaurants and transport drivers were good with social distancing and wearing masks. Some places required a mask for entry, and many public areas required both masks and a temperature check.

Tulum is expensive

When I travel to developing countries, I try to avoid being a jerk about prices. And for the longest time, I felt embarrassed  haggle to the lowest dollar. That said, Tulum is not cheap. Although influencers often claim that Tulum is the next Bali, the prices are incomparable. From the cabs, to entertainment to food and drink, I seemed to haemorrhage money as the days went by.

Beg-packers and budget travellers beware, this is not the place to run out of money.

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A tale of Two Tulums: Tulum Centro and The Hotel Zone

La Veleta and Aldea Zama

I learned that there were indeed two Tulums: the first Tulum, Tulum centro which consisted of the popular neighbourhoods of  La Veleta and Aldea Zama. The second Tulum, or “Instagram Tulum” was the Hotel Zone. La Veleta and Aldea Zama  had a lot of construction as a result of the new developments. Pot-holes are also a common problem in the road leading from La Veleta in to the Hotel Zone.

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As a Digital Nomad, unless you’ve got it like that, you’re better off searching for places to live in either La Veleta or Aldea Zama, which will cost you anywhere from 500 to 2000 USD.

Because of the nature of my job, I stayed in a smaller town an hour away from Tulum called Felipe Carrillo Puerto which offered a calmer atmosphere and more affordable options. That said, I often spent puentes (or long weekends) in Tulum. I highly recommend a visit to Felipe Carrillo Puerto if you would like to experience a very authentic and affordable side of the Riviera Maya. Here’s a glimpse of what my experience was like in Felipe Carrillo Puerto.

BEST HOSTELS IN TULUM: Where can digital nomads stay in tulum?

Meteora coffee house

Marine chose to stay at Mayan Monkey while I chose the lesser known boutique hotel-meets-hostel-meets-co-work, Meteora Coffee House. The Meteora Coffee House had a chill and quiet vibe and there was a co-working space. During my time there, the co-work wasn’t “co-working” because the internet was impossible to use. Additionally, you had to pay for you own towel along with other small amenities.

Things weren’t all bad at Meteora; it offered a serene atmosphere and the staff were incredibly friendly. The location was convenient and there was a cafe. Meteora also offered bike rentals and tours. We got to experience the Coba ruins, a Maya Farm and two huge cenotes with a driver all for an additional cost ($100 USD).

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  Meteora Co-work and Cafe

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  Tulum Co-live/Co-work

Should I STAY AT Maya Monkey Tulum?

Mayan Monkey was a hot recommendation in Cancun. It had a co-working space, restaurant and bar with wonderful (but pricey) food options, as well as the perfect social ambiance. I was welcomed to the bar by a mature blond with bright red lipstick and I just knew it was going to be a great time, and it was!

In comparison, Mayan monkey in Tulum was a behemoth.  A gelled-up, steroid-injected version of the one in Cancún…it was almost too big to sustain any genuine social atmosphere. Great for travelling in a group, but I was unsure of if it would suit the average solo traveller. It had all the fixings though: spacious co-working rooms, large common, laundry, and the actual dorms weren’t too bad.

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  Maya Monkey, Tulum (Hostel World)

Selina Hostel Tulum

If you a familiar with the Selina brand, you’ll be pleased to find that there is Selina Hostel in the hotel zone but you’ll be aghast at the prices. At the time of me writing this blogpost, Hostel World has a 6 bed shared room going for $100 USD per night when the standard if for it to be much less than that. Unlike the Selina in Playa del Carmen, this price includes a co-working space. That said, this price is cheap compared to other beachfront accommodations in the hotel zone, so it could serve as a great alternative for those who want to forgo more expensive beach front prices in the hotel zone.

The second time I passed through Tulum, I stayed at Hostel Orxy.  They offered both private and shared rooms with cute palapa roofs, some of which had private work spaces. I met two guys, one German, the other Spaniard, who were partners at a neurobiological start-up. They seemed to work seamlessly from, Oryx balancing between video calls and play. The internet wasn’t too shabby and the music was never loud enough to be an issue.

The best thing about Oryx was that they provided some amazing day tours and and the vibe was excellent. I got to see the Tulum ruins and Playa Tortuga. So if you’re travelling alone, Oryx was a great place to meet people and really experience Tulum on a budget, you’ll discover more ruins, visit lesser known beaches and drink copious amounts of tequila.

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Where to eat Breakfast in Tulum

My favourite places to eat breakfast were Del Cielo and La Baguette. These places offered more classic offering such as eggs Benedict and waffles. These hearty meals will definitely fill you up before a long day-trip.

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Where to eat the best tacos in tulum

My favourite taco stand in Tulum was Perro no Come Perro (Do no Eat Dog) which is a vegan taco stand with the best tacos and chorizos you’ll ever taste. Taqueria El Tio is also a great stand offering a popular treat, taco al pastor(spit-roasted pork). Another popular stand is Antojitos La Chiapaneca with Tacos costing about 10 pesos each!

A Night Out in Tulum Centro

I must admit that going out in Tulum Centro was a little lackluster. If you want to find top 40, then hostel bars are your best bet. Along with Maya Monkey, Straw Hat Hostel is the favourite of many backpackers, especially if you are a fan of free tequila shots. Santiago is another favoured bar in Tulum. None of these places require cover and have decent priced drinks and happy hour specials.

Cost: Drinks are 50 pesos and up

How to get around: Transportation in Tulum

Cab alternatives: Colectivos

Renting a cab is the most convenient yet least cost-effective way to travel in Tulum. Because of how expensive cabs were, I did not visit the beach my first time in Tulum. Hearing that most of the Tulum beaches charged a mysterious entrance fee did not motivate ,e to make it there. At the time, I wasn’t willing to pay 1000 pesos (50 USD) round trip.

Eventually I came to  learn that you could take a 20 peso colectivo to the Hotel zone! A colectivo is a form of public transportation and it is a common way for locals get around in Qunitana Roo. They can cost between 20 and 200 pesos depending on where you want to go. Colectivos from the Tulum area to nearby places should cost no more than 40 pesos.

Where to find Colectivos: You will find many of the colectivos opposite Antojitos La Chiapaneca and opposite the Scotiabank location.

Renting a motorbike

Going to the beach in Tulum is complex and arduous process, so if you are able, rent a car or a motorbike. The first time I rented a motorbike in Tulum, I paid 30 USD a day, and the second time I rented with the same people it cost me $25 USD a day. Some places can charge up to $50 USD a day so be sure to negotiate! Remember to always have your vendors details (usually whatsapp) on hand so that you’ll be able to contact them if anything goes wrong. Renting a bicycle or an electric scooter are other ways to get around Tulum and costs about 10 USD a day.

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day trips in tulum: Amazing Cenotes and ruins in the Tulum area

Although Tulum wasn’t what we had bargained for beach-wise, Marine and I spent a majority of our time eating at restaurants, biking to cenotes, and checking out ruins. Here are some of the places we visited:

cenote Calavera

One of my favourite cenotes in Tulum is cenote Calavera. It is perhaps the smallest cenote in the area, but don’t let its size fool you! You’ll have so much fun jumping in and out of this cenote! Your pictures will also come out better because it isn’t as crowded, since most people prefer to save their coins for the bigger cenotes.

Cost: 200 pesos

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Grand Cenote

The first time we arrived at Grand cenote, we biked 30 minutes and arrived at 3:50pm only for the attendants to tell us that we would only get to 30 minutes in the cenote; we had arrived too late. The cenote closed at 5:00pm and they accepted their last guests at 4:30pm. Don’t be like us, try to be time-conscious when visiting this cenote.

Cenote Choo-Ha

Located next to the Coba ruins, this is a cave-like underground cenote with lots of stalagmites. Its shallow waters makes it perfect for those who aren’t strong swimmers.

Cost: 100 pesos

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Cenote Tam-cach Ha

Fancy a bit of a challenge? This Coba cenote is no Joke! But watch your step! The spiral staircases could give you a bit of vertigo as you climb towards the underground. This cenote has deep waters accompanied with two diving platforms. If you are up for the challenge this cenote won’t disappoint.

Cost: 100 pesos

Coba Ruins

The Coba ruins are a great sight to see if you wan to get away from the city and have an adventure. We took a cab to the ruins and then a small bike-operated ‘tuk tuk’ towards the actual ruins. I would highly recommend getting a tour guide to learn about the history of Coba ruins.

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Tulum Ruins

One of the the best day trips at Hostel Oryx was going to the Tulum Ruins and the accompanying Playa Tortuga. The ruins were a strategic trade route in Maya history.

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THE SECOND TULUM: Instagram tulum

All the infamous clubs, lounges and restaurants were nestled in the hotel zone. Ser Ik, Casa Malca (Pablo escobar’s mansion), the Ven A La Luz sculpture, we also pupular for photo ops. But not so fast, all of which require a minimum fee to experience.

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hold on to yoUr bank accounts: RICH TULUM

Did I ever make it to rich Tulum? Yes!

On a random night, after failing to reach a cenote party, we found ourselves in the hotel zone. We went to confession and enjoyed some techno music without having to pay cover! We got lucky that night! That said, I still paid 25 USD on a drink.

With my other friend arriving in Tulum with her boujee tastes, I finally got to say YOLO and fork over the cash it would take to experience Rich Tulum. My introduction to rich Tulum was my stay at the DUNE Hotel, costing a whooping $500 a night, it has a private beach, restaurant and bar. It definitely lived up to the instagram hype, and offered a completely different vibe to anywhere I had stayed in Tulum thus far. The rooms were spacious and comfortable, and the amenities delivered.

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Rosa Negra: An Experience Restaurant

While I won’t comment too much about the food. Rosa Negra was definitely a rare experience. I had originally heard of this place in the bathroom of a Confessions. Between the music pumping and a drunk girl puking in the next stall, I heard a woman raving about how amazing the food was so I got curious. We made a reservation online, and when we arrived, we were lucky enough to get the best seats in the house! We were up close to the entertainment: bongo drums and shirtless men holding sparklers. As the night went on, the restaurant transformed into more of a clubbing vibe.

I advise anyone who eats here to wait until you are ready to leave before you pay, lest you be moved to a less desirable table. Rosa Negra also has sister restaurants such as a Parole, Taboo, and Tora which offer a similar aesthetic.

Cost: Between food and drinks, Rosa Negra cost as about $100 USD each.

Casa Malca

Casa Malca is Pablo Escobar’s Mansion which features two restaurants: Philosophy and Ambrosia. Philosophy features a Mexican menu and Ambrosia features an Asian fusion menu. Both restaurants require reservations before attending. You can also enjoy the pool and the beach while you are there

Cost: 1000 peso minimum spend per person

The hotel zone Clubbing Circuit

Once you arrive in the hotel zone, it is easy to find a place to party since the clubs are packed pretty close together. If you love great techno music or house, check out Confessions and Casa Jaguar.

Cost: Clubs and parties often required at least 25 USD cover; popular clubs such as Casa Jaguar and Bombonier charged more or less depending on the days.

The Papaya Playa project

The Papaya Play Project was a change of pace from partying at hostel bars and clubs in Tulum centro. Papaya Playa Projects attracts a different kind of clientele; with fewer solo travellers. it seemed that there were many couples and groups travelling together. When I lasted visited, the DJ played techno music and there was a beautiful light show being projected on the crashing waves. Drinks prices were astronomical though, costing a whopping 15 USD for shots and 25 USD for cocktails.

Cost: 100 USD (50 USD is a drink allowance).

The unsexy part: Is Tulum safe to visit?

Covid-19 Tulum

Covid-19 vaccinations or PCR testa are not requirements to enter the area (or anywhere else in Mexico for that matter). That said, there are many testing stations in the area. Upon my flight back to Canada, I took a test at the Amatista Centre which had my PCR test ready in less that 24 hours and in time for my flight! I highly recommend this place.

Gang activity

It’s no secret that Tulum has a flagrant gang and drug culture, and it does not have the best reputation for safety. Gang violence in Tulum is often the one topic that manages to beat out COVID-19 conversations. The month I arrived, two tourists were killed because they were caught in the cross-hairs of a shoot-out.  Not far from where I was staying either.

Like anywhere else in the world, it is prudent to always be aware of your surroundings. Some tips I’ve received is to never have your back facing the entrance of any establishment and never get too drunk or high.

Bonus tip: Ignore people on the street soliciting you for drugs, not only does this fuel drug activity in the country, but you might be getting set up for an arrest or extortion.

Police Activity

The one thing that may shock you when you visit Tulum is the enormous police and military presence. Travellers are often not sure to make of this. In my experience, the police were indifferent towards me. While riding my motorbike in Tulum, I expected to be stopped at least once by police but it never happened. I caused a bit of a traffic jam when my motorbike stopped working at an inconvenient route to the hotel zone. I was stuck for an hour and the only people who bothered to help were locals. The police passed me at least twice.

Some travellers in other parts of Quintana Roo such as Cancun report some harassment and shakedown from the police which ranged from being bothered from being out late or being publicly intoxicated.

Have fun in Tulum

Wether you’re looking for an escape or just a place to call home, Tulum has many of the things you’ll need to make your trip worwhole!